Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
